A Taste of Autumn

As the days shorten and a crispness fills the air, our palates often turn to the comforting, earthy flavours of autumn. To guide us through this seasonal shift in the culinary world, Hotel Café Royal’s Director of Wine, Giulia Florenzano, shares an insight to the wonderful world of autumnal wines.

1. As the seasons change, so do the dishes we crave. What is it about autumn that influences our wine choices?
   Autumn is a season of transition: the brightness of summer gives way to deeper, earthier tones. Our palates follow the same rhythm – we start to crave wines with more texture, warmth, and complexity to match comforting seasonal dishes, from roasted vegetables to game. Guests naturally gravitate towards wines with spice, savoury depth, or a touch of smokiness; flavours that echo the richness of autumnal produce.

2. For someone looking to build a small, curated collection for the season, which three grape varieties would you recommend as a starting point and why?
   I would suggest starting with:

• Nebbiolo – Perhaps the ultimate autumn grape: structured yet delicate, with notes of truffle, rose, and earthy forest floor. Perfect alongside game, mushrooms, and slow-cooked dishes.
• Viognier (from Condrieu) – Lush and aromatic, with notes of apricot, white flowers, and gentle spice. Its round texture and perfumed character make it a wonderful match for creamy or subtly spiced autumn dishes.
• Grenache (from the Southern Rhône or Priorat) – Generous and warming, with spice and savoury herbal notes that complement rich stews, roasted meats, and hearty vegetarian dishes.

3. Beyond the classic pairings, can you share a more surprising or unconventional pairing that you’ve discovered and loved?
   One that always surprises is mature German Riesling with pumpkin or squash-based dishes. The gentle sweetness and bright acidity lift the natural sweetness of the vegetables, while the wine’s mineral core keeps it balanced. It’s a pairing that feels both comforting and sophisticated,  and rarely expected.

4. For many, the cooler seasons signal a time for entertaining. What is your philosophy on choosing wines that will please a diverse group of palates?
   For me, wine isn’t just something to please everyone, it’s what creates the connection between the dish, the conversation, and the guests. A wine should be enjoyable on its own, but its true purpose is revealed at the table: when paired well, it can completely shift the perception of flavours, elevating both the food and the experience. Wine is a key that can open many doors: to memories, to emotions, to deeper connections. And when people feel this elevation, the whole evening transforms.

5. How do you approach creating a wine list that reflects the unique personality of Hotel Café Royal?
   The Café Royal has always been a house of contrasts: historic yet forward-thinking, opulent yet welcoming. I approach the wine list in the same way. Alongside the great classics, we feature boutique, artisanal producers with genuine stories to tell. Provenance, personality, and integrity matter deeply. Every bottle should feel intentional, curated, and reflective of both tradition and innovation, much like the spirit of the hotel itself.